Step-1 Set Up:
- Work Table
- Pencil&Erasure
- Paper Carbon
- Paper
- Square
- Ruler of Tape
- Measure
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| Start out with two
sheets of drawing paper. Place one sheet of carbon paper (same width &
height) between the two drawing paper sheets, and carbon side face down.
Notes: Use one large sheet of drawing paper
and fold it in half. Secure the three sheets of paper (drawing page carbon
- face down - drawing paper) to the work surface with small pieces of
tape. Place a straight edge or rule on the lower side and align it with
the drawing paper.
After the paper and carbon sheets are laid out and ready
to go, you can proceed to start on the design. If you are tracing an
existing pattern, try sliding it face up just below the top sheet of
drawing paper. Depending on the type of drawing paper used, you can
usually see through the top sheet to trace the design.
Both are identical with one difference, the pattern
drawing will be cut into the individual sections of glass. While the
cartoon will serve as a map to arrange the glass components |
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Preparing
Your Pattern |
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Some stained glass patterns
come full sized and some need to be enlarged, but all will need a little
preparation. Make two copies of your
pattern and keep the original for future projects. Number the pattern
pieces on both copies. Add glass color, streak direction and other helpful
reference notes. Cut one copy apart using stained glass pattern shears and
use the other for layout and assembly. |
| Use of
Pattern Shears |
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Both copper foil and lead came
take up space around your pieces of glass. If you don't compensate for
this now, you're project will "grow" ending up larger than its original
dimensions. This is especially troublesome if your making a piece that
will be installed into an opening such as a window or door.
Pattern shears have three blades that
automatically remove the right amount of the pattern to allow for the
copper foil or lead came. This allows your glass pieces to fit together
properly. Because the amount of space taken up by foil and lead differs,
pattern shears are made in foil and lead versions. Make sure that you use
the right one for your type of construction |
| Pattern
Cutting Tips |
- When cutting curves, stay in the throat of the shears
and use short, quick strokes to keep your pattern stock from jamming the
shears.
- Rub the single lade of your pattern shears with a
candle to keep the thin strips of paper from sticking in between the
blades.
- Contact paper makes a great single use pattern that
stands up to grinding.
- Using double-sided tape on pattern pieced hold
patterns to glass while cutting.
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Scoring Glass |
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It is important to use a
quality cutter that is comfortable to hold. Try out different handle
styles to find the one that is right for you. Some cutters have an oil
feed system, which keeps the cutter head lubricated and free rolling. The
cutter deposits a thin line of oil along the score (cut) which makes the
glass easier to break. |
| There are several preliminary
steps to making a good score (cut). Clean the glass of debris and surface
film. Always score on the smoothest side of the glass. |
| Start at an edge placing the
cutter perpendicular to the glass. Apply consistent, light to medium
pressure while pushing the cutter across the glass. A good score appears
as a continuous scratch on the surface. Break each score as you make it.
A dull or damaged wheel will not score properly, make sure your glass
cutter is in good shape. |
| Safety
Tips |
| Always wear
safety glasses when cutting glass. Place glass completely on a flat, firm
surface when scoring. Never leave glass hanging off the edge of a table.
Always use a bench brush to sweep the tiny pieces of glass from you work
area each time. This prevents you getting slivers of glass in your hands. |
| Never hold a
sheet of glass by its sides. Hold sheets from the top. If they slip out
of your hand, you'll still have your fingers. |
| Never lift a
sheet above you "see what it looks like." |
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Glass
Scoring Tips |
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- The right stance. It’s better to cut
standing up than sitting down. You want to cut using your body,
shoulders, and arm, not just the wrist.
- A good work surface. It should be level,
firm, clean, and at the right height for you. Some people find that a
slightly lower table helps them do a better job. A Morton Cutting
Surface is an excellent surface for all cutting.
- Steady, even movement of the cutter.
Jerky starts and stops won’t work. Neither will allowing the cutter to
wobble.
- Cutting at the right angle. Don’t let
the cutter drift to the right or left. If the cutting wheel is tilted,
you won’t be able to get a good score.
- Only cutting once. Never correct a
mistake by cutting again. Never go over the scored line a second time.
Not only will it fail to cut the glass, it also can dull your cutter. If
you have to, turn the glass over and cut on the other side. If that
doesn’t work, then use a grinder to grind the glass into shape.
- Always use your cutter with the head
screw facing up or forward for the best cutting angle.
- For most, it is easier to see and follow
your pattern line by pushing your cutter instead of pulling it (your
hand and wrist can block your vision).
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Breaking
Glass |
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Each type of
pliers has a different purpose and is used in different situations. Using
the right pliers for the job will make your stained glass experience
easier and more fun!
To break out a score, hold the glass firmly near the
score line with the pliers, flat jaw up. Use your right hand to hold the
other half of the glass near the score line opposite the pliers jaws. Use
a downward, rotating motion to break the score. |
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Breaking Tips |
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- Always wear proper eye protection when breaking
glass.
- Prevent tools from rusting by storing them away from
any corrosive chemicals. Wash and dry your tools if they come in
contact with flux or patina.
- You have more control over how your glass breaks when
you squeeze gently with your pliers. Apply pressure in small,
increasing amounts until the score runs or breaks.
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Grinders |
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Always wear safety
glasses when grinding! Position the grinder at a comfortable height to
work at. Good over heat lighting makes it easier to work and helps reduce
eye strain.
A grinder is used to smooth the edge of the glass for
foiling. This does not need to be done if you are using lead came.
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